When does one switch from semi-permanent color to permanent , this depends on each individuals situation and the amount of grey in the hair, most people who use semi-permanent color primarily are those who have a small amount of grey that want it disguised without the demarcation line that a permanent color causes, there are also those who do not want the commitment of once a month salon visits and use a semi for a slight alteration to the natural hair giving it a hue, tone , or simply to add body and shine. Distinguishing the amount of grey in peoples hair is one of the most important aspect in deciding which direction to go, semi or permanent, this is sometimes where mistakes can be made. Traditionally we are taught in cosmetology schools the standard grey scale of 20% 50% and higher yet in my experiences everyone see’s differently my 20% might not be the same as someone else’s, we have to also take into consideration the type of grey, is it coarse, soft, stubborn and is it in fact true grey, silver or white . Learning and understanding these differences is the key to successful formulations to the end result.
Another important part is the individuals dislike or like for their grey, typically there are those who might have 20% grey and dislike it so much that they tint their hair with a permanent hair color and change the whole molecular structure, and then there are those who might not be bothered even with 50%, so what does one do. The answer is customize for each individual, and a simple guideline is at 20% use a semi-permanent, at 50% with scattered grey use a permanent with 10 volume , and anything higher has to be a permanent hair color if they want the grey gone, it is that simple.
Today there is a huge market of people who are using drugstore hair color products particularly semi-permanents, they might not know that almost all drugstore hair color products including semi-permanent colors contain a higher developer (peroxide) then what a salon uses. I cannot count the times I have had people come to see me with demarcation lines telling me “oh it’s only a semi-permanent I used”uh huh, I believe full-hearted that it is the stylists responsibility to educate, recommend and do what’s right for each clients unique situations and following guidelines as well as understanding when to use a semi-permanent or a permanent hair color on a person, there is a place and a need for both.
Have a greet weekend everyone!